Note: This pattern uses US crochet terms.
I used a size 9 steel hook and Knit Cro Sheen (#10 thread).
String your beads onto the thread first. How many you need depends on the variation you make. The red bag design needs 160 beads. The designed ones must be charted and the beads counted and strung first.
You can work the sts as usual, or only work in the front or back loop (depending on whether you are doing the bead rows) to leave a decorative line between the rows.
When adding beads in the row, you have to work in the front loop only to make the line, as the beads are on the back of the st and you will be working that row from the inside. I've done both with the ridge to outline and emphasize the beads and without it. Having the ridge makes the bag a little shorter because it draws up sort of like ribbing does.
The dc rows pull one way and the sc rows pull the other so it is horizontally ribbed.
Always ch 3 to start a dc row and count it as the first dc. Ch 1 for an sc row and work a sc in the first st. Always join the last st of the round to the first one with a sl st.
Starting with Round 4 there will always be 40 sts.
Pattern
After stringing beads, chain 5 and close in a circle. Ch3 (counts as a dc) and work 15 more dc in the opening - 16 total. Join, ch3.
R2 - Work 2 dc in each dc around - 32 total. Join, ch 1.
R3 - Work a sc in 3 dc, 2 sc in 4th dc, repeat around - 40 sts. Join.
This finishes the bottom.
R4 - Working in the back loops of the previous row to make an edge at the bottom, work a dc in each sc around. (Front of dc's is right side of work)
R5 - Turn the work and do the first st in the last st of the previous row. Work a sc in each dc. Work a sc with a bead, then sc without a bead. Alternate around so 20 beads are attached. To do a bead, pull up a loop in the st below, slide up the bead, then pull a loop through both loops on the hook. Bead is on the back side. Turn the work again to do the next dc round.
Repeat rounds 4 & 5, 4 times more
R11 - this round has the holes for the drawstring. Work (4 dc, ch1, skip a dc) repeat around.
R12 - work as for R5.
R13 - Work a dc in each sc, but add a bead at the top of each dc. End off. Work in the thread end.
Ch about 30" and weave in and out the holes starting at the joining of the rounds. Join the ends of the chain to each other. I made sure there were no twists and tied the ends tog and used the hook to pull the ends around the next few sts so they spiraled along the edge of the ch before I cut them off. When you pull the chain from the back, the bag will flatten down with the front and back flat and a pleat on each side. If you don't bead the bag, you can use the flat front area to sew on large beads, flowers, etc. Or even put a large dangle on the chain so it hangs in the center front.
Variations
Patterned bags: I used a piece of graph paper 11 x 40 and drew out a pattern on it, then
starting at the top of the graph, threaded my beads on in reverse order and slid them over to the crochet thread. (Actually, my patterns were symmetric so I didn't have to worry about whether they would be in the right order.)
starting at the top of the graph, threaded my beads on in reverse order and slid them over to the crochet thread. (Actually, my patterns were symmetric so I didn't have to worry about whether they would be in the right order.)
Work the bottom the same as the first bag.
Rnd 4: Work a sc in each sc around, working in the back loops only so a defining ridge shows. Join and then turn the work.
Rnd 5-16: On the next 11 rows, work a sc in each sc around on each row, following your chart for bead placement. Work in back loops only. Ridges will form on the inside of the bag, leaving a tight textured surface on the outside with the beads.
Rnd 17: Turn the work again and work a dc in each sc around. (Front of dc's is right side of bag.)
Rnd 18*: Work 4 dc, ch 1, skip a dc, repeat around to form 8 holes for the drawstring.
Rnd 19: Work a dc in each dc and ch-1 space all around. May place beads along the top of the dc's. End off.
Add a tassel on the bottom. Chain a string as long as you wish to draw up the bag. I used about 30".
*Alternate Rnd 18: Work 2 dc, ch 1, skip dc, repeat around until 40 sts done.
This pattern will give a bag that has a gathered top instead of the neat flattened folds on each side.
I'm giving these to friends, stuffed with the following with a little card enclosed:
An eraser - so you can make all your mistakes disappear.
A penny - so you never have to say you're broke.
A marble - in case someone says you've lost all yours.
A rubber band - to hold it all together.
A string - to keep you connected.
A safety pin - for safety's sake.
A bobby pin - for a bad hair day.
A hug - to remind you someone cares.
An eraser - so you can make all your mistakes disappear.
A penny - so you never have to say you're broke.
A marble - in case someone says you've lost all yours.
A rubber band - to hold it all together.
A string - to keep you connected.
A safety pin - for safety's sake.
A bobby pin - for a bad hair day.
A hug - to remind you someone cares.
The hug is a Hershey candy.
Do not fasten off but continue with legs:
With orange start at stitch 10 (on the diagram – the next stitch from the leg you just completed) and repeat steps 1 to 7 for the second leg.
Repeat for the remaining two legs, starting at stitch 19 and 28 respectively.
Using orange yarn stitch the legs together.
NOSE
HORNS
EARS (x2)
